I spent 7 days using my bike 468 miles throughout Iowa with a pack of 18,000: right here's how I did it

I pedaled my manner throughout Iowa this summer time however didn’t spend all my time on a bicycle seat.

At one level I discovered myself wedged behind seven bikes within the dusty mattress of a pickup truck, rattling down a gravel street towards the beginning of that morning’s bicycle route in Charles Metropolis. 

The evening earlier than I had slept at an Iowa farm south of city the place a cattle feedlot had been remodeled into a duplicate of Centre Courtroom, Wimbledon—the All Iowa Lawn Tennis Club. My mates and I selected to veer out of city for the possibility to go to such a unusual spectacle.  

Let me pause and put this in plain phrases earlier than you cease studying: I spent seven days bicycling 468 miles throughout Iowa, visiting rural tourism curiosities alongside the way in which such because the finely manicured grass tennis “Courtroom of Desires.” 

I’m not alone in my devotion to this annual affliction—I imply, custom. I used to be amongst greater than 18,000 bicyclists who joined yet one more epic RAGBRAI, the Register’s Annual Great Bicycle Ride Across Iowa. Based in 1973 by a pair of Des Moines Register journalists, RAGBRAI in practically 50 years has advanced right into a cultural phenomenon during which 1000’s of individuals from across the globe swarm into Iowa to find it isn’t as flat as marketed. However a minimum of restrooms are as ample and handy as the closest cornfield.

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Kyle on the route © Kyle Munson / Lonely Planet

What’s RAGBRAI?

RAGBRAI is the world’s oldest, largest, and longest bicycle touring journey.

Annually’s route follows a distinct path from west to east, between the Missouri and Mississippi rivers, though in fact many cities and roads have been repeated since ’73. The in a single day cities–the fundamental define of that yr’s route–are introduced in January, adopted a few months later by the extra detailed path. Riders pay $175 for a weeklong registration (or $35 for a day go) and obtain an official wristband and one other band for his or her bike. RAGBRAI caps the variety of registrants (about 10,000 weeklong riders, for example), so if you happen to just like the look of the route, go forward and enroll early within the yr. 

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Like so many occasions, RAGBRAI skipped 2020 on the peak of the pandemic, thus 2023 will mark each its fiftieth journey and fiftieth anniversary. 

The journalists with the brainstorm, the late John Karras and Donald Kaul, had been self-described “wanna-be hippies” who merely schemed to get away with indulging their biking behavior on the job. On the behest of pesky editors, they invited readers alongside for the journey. For his or her sins, Karras and Kaul grew to become pioneers of the fashionable bicycling tradition we now take pleasure in. 

I fell in love with RAGBRAI and renewed my childhood love of bicycling as a Register journalist who reported on the journey, and I’ve saved pedaling since I left the newsroom in 2018. This was my eleventh RAGBRAI on a motorcycle.

Journalism: a mandate for reporters to impose on public officers and different sources of energy on behalf of democracy.

RAGBRAI: an excuse for bicyclists to impose on small-town Iowans on behalf of do-it-yourself pie, a scorching bathe, and a nook of their cool basement to break down on an air mattress. (Most riders camp in tents, however I’m among the many vocal RAGBRAI minority adamant about sleeping indoors.)

Sure, the majestic European capitals are chic. However you haven’t lived till you’ve seen a grain silo in the course of an Iowa city draped in a banner a number of tales tall studying “BEER” with an arrow pointing the way in which to pleased hour. 

RAGBRAI isn’t a race or a gaggle exercise

RAGBRAI is a serendipitous summer time freakshow—neither a race nor a gaggle exercise. Everyone kind of follows their very own schedules, though there tends to be gluts of riders within the mornings, and RAGBRAI shuts down distributors from west to east all through every day to encourage everyone to maintain shifting to the end line. A given day might carry a selected theme–for example, riders are inspired to put on their school jersey.  

“You want to prepare, however not for the explanations you would possibly assume,” was how my RAGBRAI teammate Tom Fudge put it. 

He’s proper. Normal cardio health helps you take pleasure in per week on RAGBRAI, as does deft dealing with of a pie fork. However what your physique in all probability wants most is resilience at key strain factors: neck, shoulders, again, knees, butt. Common biking—and an expert bicycle match—present sound preparation. 

Then once more, everyone belongs on RAGBRAI. From newborns to nonagenarians. From svelte athletes wrapped in smooth Spandex to the man pedaling alongside in a rumpled inexperienced Gumby costume. There are “sag wagons” for individuals who get exhausted on the street and wish or have to be picked up.

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Pin where you're from on the map
Pin the place you are from on the map © Kyle Munson / Lonely Planet

RAGBRAI’s forged of characters 

RAGBRAI characters flock from all corners. By midday on my first day this yr, all 50 states besides West Virginia had been represented in a pin-your-hometown map posted on the Mr. Pork Chop stand. (Sure, even the meals distributors develop into hallowed icons on RAGBRAI.) 

Within the city of Galva I met a product designer from San Francisco slowly making his technique to a brand new residence in Boston by way of RAGBRAI. He already had spent 56 days bicycling to achieve Iowa, marveling on the beautiful vistas from atop the Rocky Mountains. 

This was one in all a number of conversations whereas I stood in a marathon breakfast line to buy a ticket for a burrito, then stood in one other line to change mentioned ticket for the meals. 

I’d’ve waited in a 3rd line for espresso if not for my smiling RAGBRAI group captain, Invoice Danforth, who appeared out of nowhere handy me an additional cup of joe. 

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Teams Groucho and NPR with host Mark Kuhn (center) at his All Iowa Lawn Tennis Club
Groups Groucho and NPR with host Mark Kuhn (middle) at his All Iowa Garden Tennis Membership © Kyle Munson / Lonely Planet

Talking of my group, I journey with a pair of groups: Groucho (as in Marx) and No Pie Refused (as in a coalition of Nationwide Public Radio journalists) whose members stretch from coast to coast. Many individuals journey RAGBRAI alone or with rapid household. Some be part of a big constitution. However the huge number of groups (Butt Ice, Cow, Wimpy, Barking Spiders, Lifeless Hen, and many others.) lends RAGBRAI a lot of its weirdo attraction. Many groups nonetheless are hauled to RAGBRAI inside large custom-painted jalopy faculty buses outfitted with roof racks. 

The day-to-day of the journey

RAGBRAI actually is a collection of brief rides; stopping typically is the purpose. Every day options “pass-through cities” the place fireplace departments, church buildings, 4-H golf equipment, American Legions and all method of group organizations shovel out mountains of energy to hungry riders. 

On the eve of this yr’s journey, the elementary faculty in Sergeant Bluff in northwest Iowa supplied showers on one aspect of the constructing, spaghetti dinner on the opposite. 

“I’m attempting to say I’m the ‘bathe woman’ with out it sounding pervy,” mentioned a lady stationed at an entrance, providing instructions. 

On Edith Blanchard’s farm south of Mason Metropolis, one in all my teammates acquired a pair of raspberry vegetation that she and our captain strapped to their bikes for the remainder of the day. A younger black goat bleated close by in a makeshift petting zoo as a part of a 4-H fundraiser. His identify: Johnny Money, the child in blaaaack.

Talking of bleating animals, RAGBRAI additionally comes with its personal cacophonous soundtrack that blares from Bluetooth gadgets on bikes, DJs in beer gardens, and Iowa State Patrol troopers stationed at intersections with large audio system powered by their automotive batteries. Think about the final 50 years of well-liked music tossed in a blender, heavy on the ‘70s. You would possibly hear AC/DC a block down the road from the place a group band toots an instrumental rendition of Lee Greenwood’s “God Bless the usA.” 

This yr there was even a cellular karaoke group: One biker hauled a big P.A. on the again of his bike, whereas all group members wore headsets and took turns warbling songs. I used to be completely impressed they’d sufficient breath to sing—even badly—whereas panting uphill. 

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Grant Shipley
Grant Shipley, a RAGBRAI legend © Kyle Munson / Lonely Planet

The present default musical grandfather of RAGBRAI is Grant Shipley, a 67-year-old retired civil engineer from Spokane, Washington, who pedals 300 kilos of a heavy-duty Schwinn American and {custom} stereo trailer. He additionally stays match as an avid Alpine skier. 

“I’ll take something from the guts, and you already know it if you hear it,” Shipley mentioned of his eclectic, blues-based playlist.  

Cities this yr featured all types of sights. Pocahontas staged Affect Professional Wrestling with a villain, the Sweet Man, who spewed sugary snacks from his mouth as he yelled at youngsters within the entrance row. 

In West Bend, riders climbed the steps of the Grotto of the Redemption, an elaborate Christian shrine pieced collectively from quartz, petrified wooden, and different supplies beginning in 1912 by a German immigrant priest. On the high I remarked to a buddy that I used to be “hoping” to finish my first-century bike journey (a minimum of 100 miles) the next day. 

“Hoping?” a lady close by retorted, overhearing me. “Both you do it, otherwise you don’t!” 

I thanked her, including that I used to be in the precise spot for a pleasant reminder to have a bit extra religion. 

My day of biking 107 miles did really feel enabled by divine intervention. I credit score the spirit of co-founder Karras, who died in November 2021 in Des Moines—so this was our first RAGBRAI with out him. It felt as if his breath blessed us with a gentle tailwind all through the week, particularly on the longest day of pedaling. 

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Chicken poop bingo
Hen poop bingo © Kyle Munson / Lonely Planet

On RAGBRAI’s final day, our our bodies had been prepared for the week to finish, however not our souls. Northeast Iowa usually boasts the steepest hills, and Saturday’s first climb didn’t disappoint. The flip aspect is the possibility to hurry downhill. On this case, the occasional stray feather from Workforce Pink Flamingo’s boas grazed my cheek as they fluttered by. Alas, the do-it-yourself pie bought out 20 minutes earlier than we arrived at West Paint Creek Lutheran Church east of Waukon. I didn’t say the week was excellent—simply practically so. 

We hit the Mississippi River at 1:49 p.m., feeling euphoric and triumphant. The official mileage for this yr’s route was 454, however one of many first belongings you study is that there are as many alternative types of RAGBRAI as there are riders.

Maybe as a result of RAGBRAI was based on a whim, it effortlessly embraces successive generations of riders and their evolving whims—so long as it’s from the guts. 

You realize it if you expertise it. 

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Kyle at the dip site in Lansing
Kyle on the dip website in Lansing © Dave Purdy / Lonely Planet

7 high ideas for RAGBRAI newbies

  • Attempt to journey a minimum of 500 miles within the months main as much as RAGBRAI, to assist situation your physique and willpower.
  • Journey with mates or a group; it’s extra enjoyable. 
  • Regardless of biking all week, it’s possible you’ll achieve weight–particularly if in case you have a style for do-it-yourself pie. 
  • You’ll nonetheless must convey money; you may’t buy all of your roadside Kool-Assist and bananas with bank cards or apps.  
  • If you happen to like to camp outside, you’ll have loads of choices. However I at all times advocate establishing lodging in Iowans’ houses alongside the route. This fellowship is an enormous a part of the RAGBRAI magic. 
  • There can be loads of bike mechanics accessible on the route. 
  • There’s a RAGBRAI Newbies Facebook group.

The very best, must-have gear for RAGBRAI

  • helmet, gloves
  • a number of pairs of motorbike shorts, totally different jerseys
  • air mattress and sleeping bag
  • chain lube and cleansing fabric
  • tire pump
  • spare tube (except you journey tubeless)
  • sunscreen
  • small fold-up rain poncho
  • additional exterior battery (if you happen to fear about holding your telephone charged)
  • Velcro straps (helpful for strapping shirts, and many others., to the highest tube of your bike)

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